by Cláudio Alves
Some films have overtly brilliant costume design with sprawling wardrobes that call attention to their magnificence at every turn. Others shine in less showy ways, sometimes withholding their potential for sartorial spectacle until the right moment. A stylish coat can alter the way we look at a character. A bold pop of color can transform a scene's emotional tonalities. A singular stylistic choice can make all the difference.
Marriage Story is a good example of this sort of costume design. Mark Bridges isn't unfamiliar with epic feats of costumery but he knows when to hold back and sacrifice aesthetic splendor for the sake of character building. When it comes to Laura Dern's Nora, a savvy L.A. lawyer, his work gets a bit showier. This is a woman who knows her looks can be a weapon, even in a world of grumpy judges and boring office meetings. It's only sensible that her costumes are more attention-grabbing than the other characters' outfits…
Depending on who she's talking to and how, Nora calibrates her style. For her first meeting with Nicole, we see this process of fashion maneuvering happening in real-time. She starts the scene more distant and grandiose, wearing a smart jacket with a loud print. As the scene goes on and becomes progressively more intimate, she sheds her jacket and comes down to her client's level with a simple white blouse. Later, during the big negotiation between both teams of lawyers, her pink moiré dress is a show of strength, perfect to intimidate the feckless husband and be a pillar of strength for Nicole.
Fashion as armor, style as a weapon of intimidation or a tool of comfort, the femininity of pink and the power of a simple jacket – those are Bridges' main considerations when dressing Nora for one of her most important scenes. When the quarreling spouses face each other in court, a surprise decision from Charlie's part sours Nora's outlook. She was wearing a neutral jacket, modest and perfect for a sober and amicable separation. As soon as she realizes there will be no simplicity to the proceedings, she sheds the piece revealing another pink confection underneath. The gesture of taking off the jacket is a leitmotiv, once a show of sisterhood and then a power play.
The pink represents another bold color choice that helps visually transform the court case into a battle of the sexes. It also highlights Laura Dern's statuesque figure with darts that contour the fabric around her curves and a few hints of black to make it look like a piece of office-appropriate lingerie. Against Ray Liotta's angry attorney, Dern's Nora looks sexy and glamorous. You can't take your eyes away from her and that's precisely what she wants. What could be a discussion between two lawyers of equal standing, becomes a movie star's monologue with irregular interjections by a fashion-free supporting player. Even before any judgment is passed, Nora already looks like a winner.
Marriage Story is a great film for various reasons. The beautiful work of the design team is one of them. Hats off to Mark Bridges!