The Film Experience

by Cláudio Alves

Compared to other Emmy awards, the Best Costumes tryptic of Contemporary, Period, and Fantasy/Sci-Fi represents a fairly recent addition. For decades, there was no distinction between genres. Contemporary, period and fantasy competed together, to the obvious disadvantage of the more modern-set series. Later on, fantasy and period designs were joined in a single award, leaving space for contemporary fashions to win. As of 2018, all three got their own category.

We'll be starting our analysis of the Best Costumes contenders with the Fantasy/Sci-Fi race which has been dominated by Game of Thrones in previous years. As that series' reign has ended, a new champion will emerge…

CARNIVAL ROW (Prime Video)
Episode: "Aisling"

Joanna Eatwell, Costume Designer
Clare Vyse, Assistant Costume Designer
Jennifer Lander, Costume Supervisor

In a category dominated by science-fiction, Carnival Row stands out as the only example of old-school fantasy. Mixing Victorian fashion with fairy-tale elements, the look of this Amazon Prime Original is handsomely ornamental, but not particularly inspiring. It could have been interesting to see how the existence of fairies, witches, centaurs, and other creatures would have influenced the styles of 19th-century England. However, such potential is seldomly fulfilled by the show. Also, the cinematography's so gloomy, there are many scenes when you can hardly see a thing, much less appreciate fine details of costume design.

THE HANDMAID'S TALE (Hulu)
Episode: "Household"

Natalie Bronfman, Costume Designer
Helena Davis Perry, Costume Supervisor
Christina Cattle, Assistant Costume Designer

With only three seasons released, The Handmaid's Tale has already amassed four nominations in the Best Costumes category. It never won, but its color-coded designs have become icons all by themselves, even when divorced from the context of their narrative. In "Household", the main characters visit Gillead's hellish vision of Washington DC, and the powerful iconography of the costumes becomes impossible to miss, especially once a new utterly perverse accessory is added to the protagonist's wardrobe. When multiplied by crowds against white marble, the human geometry of these costumes gains an epic scope, like something out of an ancient myth or perhaps a documentary by the monstrous Leni Riefenstahl.

THE MANDALORIAN (Disney+)
Episode: "Chapter 3: The Sin"

Joseph Porro, Costume Designer
Julie Robar, Costume Supervisor
Giovanna Ottobre-Melton, Assistant Costume Designer
Lauren Silvestri, Assistant Costume Designer

The more recent chapters of the Star Wars franchise have all been wonderfully designed, rich in immersive detail and palimpsestic textures. Regarding this specific episode, Joseph Porro gets to showcase many variations of the Mandalorian attire, delineating how one can define disparate characters out of the same basic model. In the same chapter, the protagonist gets a mini-makeover, added bits of shiny armor and new weapons, while Werner Herzog models otherworldly regality in a small role.

WATCHMEN (HBO)
Episode: "It's Summer and We're Running Out of Ice"

Sharen Davis, Costume Designer
Valerie Zielonka, Costume Supervisor

Watchmen offers the most varied approach to costume design of all these nominees. Part of it comes from its multifaceted script, which starts the series' first episode with a tumultuous recreation of the 1921 Greenwood Massacre in Tulsa, before jumping to an alternate future where the USA is outwardly fascistic, white supremacists wear Rorschach inkblot masks and cops dress like super-heroes. This electrifying cocktail of pop symbols and cultural signifiers is further complicated by the odd inclusions of local musical theatre, silent film pastiche, and even a neo-aristocratic apparition in the form of Jeremy Irons. It's a punchy, memorable, and precisely executed feat of costuming.

WESTWORLD (HBO)
Episode: "Parce Domine"

Shay Cunliffe, Costume Designer
Dan Bronson, Costume Supervisor
Amanda Riley, Assistant Costume Designer
Giorgia Tramontano, Assistant Costume Designer
Jo Kissack Folsom, Associate Costume Designer

Taking over Westworld’s wardrobe on the show's third season, designer Shay Cunliffe relied on well-trodden sci-fi tropes to dress the future. Her vision is characterized by monochromatic sleekness, making the cityscape look like a jungle of anonymous minimalism. It’s not original but mostly works thanks, in part, to some occasional pops of sartorial fun. When Evan Rachel Wood’s little black dress transforms into a gold floor-length gown, the quick-change effect attenuates the visual monotony and suggests that, maybe, the fashions of tomorrow won’t be just about austere simplicity.

Personal Ranking:

The Handmaid's Tale
Watchmen
The Mandalorian
Carnival Row
Westworld

Predicted Winner: The Handmaid's Tale

Potential Spoiler: Carnival Row

Despite The Handmaid’s Tale three previous losses in the Best Costumes category, the programs that defeated it are now out of the running. Without Game of Thrones to worry about and The Crown relegated to a separate category, it seems like a good time to honor the iconic costumes of the Hulu show. Though, I'd look out for the period-esque designs of some of the other contenders, like Watchmen and Carnival Row. Who knows? Maybe a resurgence of Star Wars love might even catapult The Mandalorian to a victory, even though its costumes seem too downplayed for the Emmys.