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« USC Scripter Nominations Add a TV Category. (But Where's "Carol" in Film?) | Main | Sicario's Hell in Harmony »
Thursday
Jan072016

Costume Designer's Guild Nods: Sandy Powell x 2. And More... 

It's Guild Week. The week when many artists get their hopes up for nominations since the guilds have so many categories for their particular craft unlike Oscar's mere 5 for the altogether. But since we love costumes, the more the merrier. Congratulations to the nominees who we'll discuss after the jump...

Youth had great costumes by way of Carlo Poggioli

Excellence in Contemporary Film
Beasts of No Nation – Jenny Eagan
Joy – Michael Wilkinson
Kingsman: The Secret Service – Arianne Phillips
The Martian – Janty Yates
Youth – Carlo Poggioli

"Contemporary" is nearly always the most troublesome category for guilds as they tend to just reward whatever films are in the overall Oscar hunt. Though they were a smidge more creative here than they sometimes are. 

Not sure I get it: I didn't personally vibe to Beasts of No Nation's costumes. At all. They felt like a massive hodgepodge of everything... which is possibly defensible as narrative choice I suppose given the magpie mayhem chaos but also why was that one guy completely naked all the time when they killed so many people and had so many people's outfits to choose from? And why did some people feel contemporary and others period.

I get it: Especially happy for Carlo Poggioli because the costumes for Youth were a crucial part of its filthy rich retreat mystique

Where are: Tangerine, Clouds of Sils Maria, By the Sea (or wait is that period? or just out-of-time)

 

Crimson Peak's Jessica Chastain

Excellence in Period Film
Brooklyn – Odile Dicks-Mireaux INTERVIEW
Carol – Sandy Powell
Crimson Peak – Kate Hawley
The Danish Girl – Paco Delgado
Trumbo – Daniel Orlandi

I get it: The lot of them...

Shed a tear: For all the dead animals employed to achieve the strong costuming work in both The Revenant and The Hateful Eight though neither were honored here.

Where is: Far From the Madding Crowd... insanely great costumes in that one and people keep ignoring them. Yes Madding Crowd will be a nominee here at TFE in the category. Also why no love for The Man From UNCLE anywhere in this regard? 

Oscar probabilities: They all have a better than decent shot at the Academy's shortlist but their main trouble will come from this next almost-as-formidable category...

Excellence in Fantasy Film
Cinderella – Sandy Powell
Ex Machina – Sammy Sheldon Differ
The Hunger Games: Mockingjay, Part 2 – Kurt and Bart
Mad Max: Fury Road – Jenny Beavan
Star Wars: The Force Awakens – Michael Kaplan

 

 

I don't get it: Why is Ex Machina "fantasy" here but "contemporary" with ADG?  Ex Machina is awesome so not complaining so much as just 'make up your minds guild'! Hint: easy-to-mistake for actually human sexbots are still very much fantasy, not available for purchase yet. Not that we've done a google search with credit card in hand. We're just... it SEEMS like that's far away still. 

I get it: This list makes lots of sense. Showy costumes in well liked films.

Question: Will Sandy Powell score two Oscar nominations for Costume Design at once this season for Cinderella and Carol? She only managed that in 1998 with Todd Haynes's Velvet Goldmine and the Best Picture winner Shakespeare in Love. When the same opportunity arose in 2002 with Todd Haynes Far From Heaven and the Best Picture nominee Gangs of New York, they only went for the the more traditional period piece. What will happen this year with another double dipping year with a Todd Haynes picture as one half of the equation? 

Outstanding Contemporary Television Series
American Horror Story: Hotel – Lou Eyrich
Empire, Season 1 – Rita McGhee
House of Cards – Johanna Argan, Kemal Harris
Ray Donovan – Christopher Lawrence
Transparent – Marie Schley

I get it: Hotel and Empire are no duh perpetually worthy choices in this arena. There are many issues to be had with American Horror Story each year but the costume work is generally not among them and generally inspired.  Transparent's season 2 has found some wonderfully believable evolution for Maura's looks and other characters emotional arcs. 

Not sure I get it: I've only seen a couple of episodes of Ray Donovan so I'll admit I'm at a loss to explain its inclusion since it doesnt seem a clothing show at all.  Anyone? Like why wouldn't, oh... Jane the Virgin be here? 

Outstanding Period Television Series
The Knick – Ellen Mirojnick
Mad Men – Janie Bryant, Tiffany White Stanton
Masters of Sex – Isis Mussenden
Outlander – Terry Dresbach
Penny Dreadful – Gabriella Pescucci

I get it: Please build your shrines to Gabrielle Pescussi and worship daily. But this whole list is good. Nice to see Janie Bryant's weirdly underrewarded work on Mad Men honored again.

I don't get it: But is Penny Dreadful period or  fantasy? Did they have in guild arguments?

Outstanding Fantasy Television Series
Game of Thrones – Michele Clapton
Once Upon a Time – Eduardo Castro
Sleepy Hollow, Season 2 – Kristin M. Burke, Mairi Chisholm
Sleepy Hollow, Season 3 – Mairi Chisholm
The Wiz Live! – Paul Tazewell

I get it: Game of Thrones

I don't get it: Two different seasons of one show eligible in the same year? Confusion. Can anyone explain? Also, though I hate to feel like an ass for saying as much, since i understand the series is beloved by American families, every time I've chanced upon Once Upon a Time my eyes have started bleeding so I'll be perpetually perplexed for any visual honors for this show. 

Excellence in Short Form Design
And So It Begins, Old Spice Commercial – Mindy Le Brock
From the Makers of Happy & Merry, H&M Presents Katy Perry Commercial – B. Åkerlund
The Hobbit: Kingdoms of Middle-earth – Dance Battle, Video Game, Kaboom/Warner Interactive Commercial – Soyon An
Kevin Spacey, E-Trade Commercial – Johanna Argan
Most Interesting Man in the World Wins on Land, Sea & Air, Dos Equis Commercial – Julie Vogel

If I had the strength I would investigate since it was fun to consider costumes in commercials that one time we did. But alas, no strength during this particular guild week. 

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Reader Comments (13)

The Expanse is a much more worthy nominee than Once Upon a Time.

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterSawyer

The Expanse should be nominated over OUAT.

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterSawyer

Good call on Jane the Virgin. All hail Rogelio's lavender suits!

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterSuzanne

I don't watch Ray Donovan but somebody deserves to win an award for putting Eion Bailey in half a wet-suit so this seems the place for that!

PENNY DREADFUL FOR EVERYTHING FOREVER

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterJason

While the narrative is rich with fantasy, most of the costumes in Penny Dreadful are quite historically accurate. I would say that, for example, The Tudor's version of XVI century clothing was much closer to fantasy than Penny Dreadful's 1890s costumes.

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered Commenterca

I liked the costumes in Beasts of No Nation, I think the idea is that since it's a war torn region a lot of the clothes would be a hodge podge of eras. Hand me downs / donated clothing etc.

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterRami

I weep for SCREAM QUEENS in the contemporary category. What nonsense to not nominate it here.

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterGlenn

Is it really just "Kurt and Bart" as the costume designers for Hunger Games? If so, I guess that's kind of cool though sort of confusing. What if they break up? Costumes by Kurt?

Anyway, go Odile Dicks-Mireaux. She's like the opposite of Kurt and Bart. :-)

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterDave in Hollywood

Hell yes to Brooklyn showing up here, and for Kingsman's sharp sharp suits. And AHS's wild costumes. Say what you will about quality, it's got a great aesthetic.

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterNick T

Dave -- Kurt & Bart is what they go by yes. They have such a cool filmography already.

January 7, 2016 | Registered CommenterNATHANIEL R

Glad to see "Brooklyn", "Penny Dreadful", and "Outlander", "Mad Max" make the list.
I don't understand the nomination for "Ray Donovan" at all.
As for 2 seasons of Sleepy Hollow - that's just wrong. It's both greedy and unfair to the other nominees.
Weird rules.

January 7, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterLadyEdith

Petula Clark is pissed. No nom for The Man From UNCLE. Can't remember the last time when a movie captured the fun and glamour of the 60s so spot-on. Not groovy, Guild.

January 8, 2016 | Unregistered Commenterbrookesboy

Oh, these aren't too bad. They really could've included Spotlight and The Big Short and called it a day but they didn't and that's important. Means they actually watched random things to get a feel for worthy stuff, like we always hear costumers do.

Brooklyn
Carol
Crimson Peak
The Danish Girl
Trumbo
Cinderella
The Hunger Games: Mockingjay, Part 2
Mad Max: Fury Road
Star Wars: The Force Awakens
+The Hateful Eight
+Far From the Madding Crowd
+The Man From UNCLE

Any five combo of those can still show up at the Oscars, I think.

Nate, I suspect adventurous Academy costumers will chime in to appreciate Janet Patterson's work on Madding Crowd. She's a 4x nominee, all for distinctly foreign affairs, and thought of as one of the underappreciated greats. She's the kind of talent craft people bring up in roundtable discussions and has managed sole nods on under-seen projects a couple times already.

So many good dressing choices on the tv side as well. Let's have one last hurrah for our Janie for Mad Men's final entries.

Consider this the start of the shower of craft /design nominations The Wiz Live is gonna get this year.

January 8, 2016 | Unregistered CommenterMark The First
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