Emmy Review: Period Costumes

by Cláudio Alves

In the past three seasons, The Crown and The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel have won the Best Period Costumes Emmy. This year, they are again competing for the prize. If history repeats itself, Netflix's royalty porn will triumph over Maisel's midcentury stylings, but we never know. After all, two new contenders are joining the race in the form of two Emmy-loved limited series Hollywood and Mrs. America. Pose  is also there, but the FX show seems to bound to go the Mad Men route, always a worthy nominee, never a winner…

HOLLYWOOD (Netflix)
Episode: "A Hollywood Ending"

• Lou Eyrich, Costume Designer
• Sarah Evelyn, Costume Designer
• Tiger Curran, Assistant Costume Designer
• Suzy Freeman, Costume Supervisor

Lou Eyrich has long been one of Ryan Murphy's most essential collaborators. Even when the TV mogul falters, as he often does, the costume design in his productions is always impeccable, campy, and show-stopping. Fittingly, Hollywood has its fair share of problems, but fashion isn't one of them. Eyrich captures the glitz and glamour of Tinsel Town in the late 40s with a keen eye towards humorous archetypes and delicious exaggeration. It's not subtle or particularly nuanced work, but it's fun, especially when it comes to the Oscar-y finale that's been submitted.

MRS. AMERICA (FX Networks)
Episode: "Shirley"

• Bina Daigeler, Costume Designer
• Erin Byrne, Assistant Costume Designer
• Mila Hermanovski, Assistant Costume Designer
• Eileen Kennedy, Assistant Costume Designer
• Sheryl Willock, Assistant Costume Designer
• Bettina Seifert, Costume Supervisor
• Erika Larner, Costume Supervisor

I've already waxed rhapsodic about the excellent costume design of Mrs. America. Wisely, Bina Daigeler's awards submission focuses on one of the most crowded episodes of the miniseries, making for an arresting parade of style as politics, fashion as a social signifier, and costume as character and historical definition. The wardrobe of Uzo Aduba as Shirley Chisholm is especially interesting for how it combines dramatic speculations with the precise recreation of well-documented real-life ensembles.

POSE (FX Networks)
Episode: "Acting Up"

• Analucia McGorty, Costume Designer
• Nicole Jescinth Smith, Assistant Costume Designer
• Alexa De Fazio, Assistant Costume Designer
• Linda Giammarese, Costume Supervisor

Pose should have won this trophy last year. While the costumes of the second season premiere aren't as extra as those from the pilot, they're still extraordinary. The social hierarchies transgressed by ballroom culture are defined by the costumes as much as they are by textual context. In this milieu, even the funereal fashions of the queer community offer an opportunity to challenge fashion conventions. All that, and the submitted episode features one of Elektra's most absurd and wonderful looks, a Marie Antoinette meets Carnival extravaganza worthy of tens across the board.

THE CROWN (Netflix)
Episode: "Cri de Coeur"

• Amy Roberts, Costume Designer
• Sidonie Roberts, Assistant Costume Designer
• Sarah Moore, Costume Supervisor

The actors weren't the only members of The Crown's team to get a changeover during the transition from season 2 to 3. Emmy-winning costume designer Michele Clapton stepped down to make way for Amy Roberts, who has the added challenge of dealing with some of the Royal Family's ugliest fashion choices of the last century. Consequently, her work isn't as classically elegant as her predecessor's but is no less historically exact. "Cri de Coeur" offers a rare opportunity for humorous, witty design, as Roberts dresses Princess Margaret in glamorous luxury for her extra-marital dalliances. 

THE MARVELOUS MRS. MAISEL (Prime Video)
Episode: "It's Comedy or Cabbage" 

• Donna Zakowska, Costume Designer
• Marina Reti, Assistant Costume Designer
• Sheila Grover, Costume Supervisor
• Ginnie Patton, Costume Supervisor

As far as episode submissions go, this one's a stunner. When Midge goes on a work trip to sunny Florida. you can bet there'll be plenty of midcentury costume porn. She enters the scene wearing a picture hat and a floral dress complete with cape and only becomes better as the episode unfolds. In case you think the episode only features costume as a conduit to comedy, this chapter also features the dazzlement of romantic glamour, beatnik fashion, immersive period veracity, and a televised comedy hour. If possible, the extras are even more impressively attired than the leads. 

Personal Ranking:

1. Mrs. America
2. Pose
3. The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel
4. The Crown
5. Hollywood

Predicted Winner: Hollywood

Potential Spoiler: The Crown

As far as predictions go, the likeliest contenders for the win seem to be Hollywood and The Crown. Lou Eyrich is one of the TV Academy's favorite craftswomen and she's already won several prizes for her work alongside Murphy. As for the royal series, it has an advantage as the previous Best Costumes champion. That being said, I wouldn't be surprised if The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel nabbed this one since their submission is truly perfect.

All Categories Covered:
DRAMA: Lead Actress | Lead Actor | Guest Actress | Guest Actor 
COMEDY: Lead Actress | Lead Actor | Guest Actress | Guest Actor 
MISC: TV Movie | Costumes Fantasy  

Comments

[Cash]

I think Mrs. America takes it, but I wouldn't be surprised if ANY other wins. That doesn't often happen. Usually there are a few nominees where you know that person is just lucky to be nominated.

[Brian]

Hollywood might not be for everyone, but I adored the costumes. It would probably be my winner. I’m supremely disappointed the The Great wasn’t nominated here, but honestly the lack of love for that show at the Emmys was depressing.

[Abe]

This is a great category. Thanks for this detailed look. I think I'd choose Pose or Maisel.