TIFF 50: "Frankenstein" has great gowns, beautiful gowns

by Cláudio Alves

Last year, Emilia Pérez finished in second place for TIFF's People's Choice Award, and, while not as bad, this year's runner-up left me similarly displeased. You can deduce that the masses disagree, having received Guillermo del Toro's Mary Shelley adaptation with open hearts and adoration aplenty. I think I was also predisposed to love the Mexican master's spin on Frankenstein, having defended his follies for the last decade, even when critics I respect soured on the man's cinema. Moreover, I even re-read the novel – comparing the 1818 and 1831 versions as I went along – to prepare for what was sure to be a grand Gothic spectacle to sweep me off my feet.

As it turns out, del Toro's Frankenstein was one of my major disappointments at TIFF 50, maybe the biggest. Thank heavens for those beautiful costumes and that beautiful Creature, for I'm not sure I'd have made it through this 150-minute slog without them…

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Venice Gowns '22, Round 3

Belgian goddess Virginie Efira (at Venice for Other People's Children) and French icon Isabelle Huppert (presenting Le Syndicaliste) often exude sexual danger onscreen, but only Huppert opted for murder weapons as heels (look at those!). Efira went with a non-dangerous but gorgeous carmine velvet dress. Spain's movie queen Penelope Cruz hit Venice to promote her new Italian film L'Immensita and stunned as usual; truly one of the bonafide MOVIE STARS of our era. American actresses Hong Chau, Sadie Sink (both promoting The Whale), Patricia Clarkson (Monica), ad Britich actresses Jodie Turner-Smith (who is at every red carpet event in Venice this year), and Mia Goth (promoting Pearl) complete today's red carpet lineup. 

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Round 1 - Jodie Turner-Smith, Catherine Deneuve, Julianne Moore, etc...
Round 2 - Timothée Chalamet, Tessa Thompson, Cate Blanchett, etc...

It's Gonna Be May(Day)

by Jason Adams

Heads-up on a movie that should be on your radars if it isn't already -- I saw director Karen Cinorre's debut film Mayday at Sundance back in February, and it's a fascinating feminist spin on the War Film starring a slew of super up-and-comer actresses, including personal beloveds Grace Van Patten (so great on Nine Perfect Strangers right now) and Mia Goth (oh how we love Mia Goth). Oh and Juliette Lewis is there too? Indeed she is! Here's a little of what I said about Mayday in February:

"Mayday... is plenty aware of... the limitations in adopting masculine ideas of violence and revenge. But unlike something like Zack Snyder's Sucker Punch, which Mayday feels like an explicit rebuke of, there's no fetishization of girls play-acting tough guy roles -- their past wounds don't become level-up Barbie-costumes that wrap their sexual assaults in pleather bustier pseudo-feminist bullshit. These women's fuck-ups feel genuine, earned and experienced -- they've left more emotional marks than they have sexy thigh scars or pretty painted bruises -- while their baggy fatigues just make for a practical place to wipe off dude-gore."

Read the rest (which dives into some themes I saw percolating across several female-directed pictures at Sundance) here. Mayday is out on October 1st, and here's the trailer to get you hyped:

Putting the Genre in Gender at Sundance

by Jason Adams

A lot of ink, possibly pink, has already been spilled on this year's Sundance marking a flashpoint for female filmmakers. (You can find the same sort of headlines if you look back at last year's fest, which included Eliza Hittman's Never Rarely Sometimes Always, Kirsten Johnson's Dick Johnson is Dead, and Emerald Fennell's Promising Young Woman.) Still, women's voices at this year's fest feel dominant in a way I'm not sure they ever have before, and it strikes me that the ways we're seeing women re-working genre as a tool of dissembling trauma and male-dominance is in particular fascinating, especially as the Trump years come to their ignominious, death-rattling end...

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Horror Costuming: Suspiria

A special miniseries for Halloween by Cláudio Alves

Costume sketches by Giulia Piersanti

As cinephiles, we're often too quick to condemn the idea of the remake. But remakes can often be illuminating. A good remake is a conversation made of echoes refracted through cinema and cultural history and time, as valuable, in its own way, as the original picture.

Luca Guadagnino's Suspiria is perhaps the supreme example of this. Instead of replicating Dario Argento's 1977 post-Giallo masterpiece, Guadagnino and his team have created an entirely new work that further explores themes only glanced at in the first movie. Even its look is excitingly different, autumnal and chilly where the previous film was carnivalesque and hot-blooded. One could write about the perfection of Sayombhu Mukdeeprom's cinematography or Inbal Weinberg's scenography, but, today, you're invited to reflect on the work of costume designer Giulia Piersanti…

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