Cruella's best looks: A "complete" ranking

by Cláudio Alves

If there were any doubts that Jenny Beavan is a costume design goddess, Disney's latest live-action remake/villain origin story proves it beyond any reasonable doubt. Unencumbered by the financial restraints inherent to independent cinema, Beavan serves up an orgiastic ecstasy of excess and punk rock fashion pastiche. According to interviews, she conceived 47 different costumes for Emma Stone's redeemed villainess, making Cruella the most-dressed movie of the year. It's also a good contender for the title of best-dressed. It's fair to say that an Oscar nomination is all but guaranteed. However, since the 94th Academy Awards are still nearly ten months away, let's focus on other matters.

Specifically, let's delve deep into the matter of Emma Stone's outlandish outfits and decide which are her grandest, most devilishly glamorous looks…

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93rd Academy Awards: 10 Best-dressed

by Cláudio Alves

After an awards season full of Zoom ceremonies and no red carpets to speak off, Oscar night was a breath of fresh air. While most stars have spent the past few months attending shows from their homes, that didn't mean there wasn't fashion to appreciate. However, there's something special about the spectacle of the red carpet, something ineffably magical. With that in mind, I decided to explore, list, and rank the best looks of the night. From ingenues to aged thespians, male provocateurs, glamorous goddesses, there was much to appreciate. 

First, though, I'd like to make an honorable mention… 

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The animated couture of "Over the Moon"

by Cláudio Alves

As computer animation evolves, the making of these features becomes ever more complex. A few decades ago, it might have seemed silly to have cinematographers collaborating with cartoon filmmakers, but that's no longer the case. Roger Deakins, for instance, had a crucial part in making the How to Train Your Dragon movies look the way they did. The same goes for costume design.

Once upon a time, what an animated figure wore was, more or less, inseparable from character design and you rarely had a specific costume department in such productions. With films like Disney's Frozen and Laika's gigantic stop-motion projects, there's increasing space for costume designers in the making of animated movies. The latest example is Netflix's Over the Moon…

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Horror Costuming: Stoker

by Cláudio Alves

We carry part of our parents with us at all times. Whether through the body their genetics defined, or the mind molded and perchance scarred by their influence, their absence, their love, we are made in their image. Some might rejoice in that intrinsic truth, others resent it. Park Chan-wook's only English-language feature, Stoker, understands this with caustic assuredness. From its opening salvos, the script and images call attention to matters of blood and descendence, materializing the familial bonds through costume design…

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Doc Corner: 'Mucho Mucho Amor' and 'House of Cardin'

By Glenn Dunks

When we look back at our 2020 times stuck indoors for endless hours, I wonder what people will remember. Among the much more high profile television series and surprise album drops, I suspect one title many will find themselves reaching for in their memories is Mucho Mucho Amor: The Legend of Walter Mercado. I have to admit to being entirely oblivious to the focus of Cristina Costantini and Kareem Tabsch's documentary except a well-timed ‘appearance’ on RuPaul’s Drag Race just a week before the film premiered on Netflix. Unless I caught him on an episode of Sally Jessy Raphael, I guess. 

What I discovered—and what I imagine is what will allow for fond remembrance of the movie once we are long out of isolation hubs—was something so very sweetly tender. A film that’s every bit as fabulous as the elaborate, bejewelled cloaks and capes its subject was famed for.

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