93rd Academy Awards: on the "Makeup and Hair" Nominees

by Nathaniel R

Throughout our "gulp" twenty years of covering the Oscars, no branch has proven more confounding than the Hair and Makeup designers. Like all branches they have weird and glaring blindspots (for some reason despite adoring makeup effects prosthetics they loathe the genre that most commonly deploys them: horror) but many of their rulings have been bizarre (remember how a little CG touchup on Nicole Kidman's prosthetic nose in The Hours disqualified the film in this category but throughout the rest of the Aughts huge CG spectacles were regularly honored?!). They love old age and prosthetic effects makeup regardless of quality, except when they suddenly get fussy about it and don't.  Sometimes they love wigs and other times only the makeup matters, hair be damned. They're tough to get a bead on but it's easier to suss out what might win once they've made their often perplexingly random finalist and nominee calls (Like how was Possessor and its innovative makeup effects not even on the finalist list? Oh, right, Horror film.) 

The nominees are listed in ascending order of how likely we think they are to win the Oscar...

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93rd Academy Awards: Best Costume Design

by Cláudio Alves

Costume illustrations by Gloria Young Kim (left) and Matthew JLeFebvre (righ)

After last year's dispiriting domination of Best Picture contenders in craft categories, this year's Best Costume Design lineup feels like a breath of fresh air. While the branch is resistant to contemporary narratives, their reluctance to honor new names has alleviated a bit. For the first time since 2006, we have three first-time nominees among the costume designers competing for gold. Better yet, the five achievements honored by AMPAS offer a dizzying variety of film styles, aesthetic strategies, genre, and tone. From Disney remakes to Italian literary adaptations, from biopics to biting period comedies, this batch of nominees has it all.

Still, in the end, one must win. With that in mind, here's how I'd rank the five Best Costume Design nominees at the 93rd Academy Awards…

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Jane Austen @ the Oscars

by Cláudio Alves

After multiple articles about Jane Austen movie adaptations over the past year, you might have figured out I'm a big fan of the Regency writer. Her delightful mix of social satire and comical romance is pretty irresistible as are many of the films that have been made out of the author's works. Since the Oscar nominations are upon us, it feels appropriate to consider these two personal obsessions together, awards love and Austenian fandom. As it stands, many are predicting Autumn de Wilde's Emma. to score a couple of nods in the Moulin Rouge! categories of Production and Costume Design. If that happens, this latest entry in the Jane Austen cinematic universe will join a select group of movies…

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FYC Emma.'s Costumes (or lack thereof)

by Elisa Giudici

The Academy Awards love period dramas and historical adaptations, at least in the Best Costume Design category. They love movies in which actors and actresses sport garments from the past so much that it's always unlikely that movies set in the present will be nominated, no matter how great the work is. Contemporary outfits? Not for us! Historically accurate costumes? Oscar worthy! Even in the realm of sci-fi they have an aversion to the contemporary (via the future), fantasy movies which are more likely to recall the past with their medieval vibes, are more likely. 

That said, sometimes period costume design can be really stunning. Such is the case with the latest movie adaptation of Jane Austen’s classic Emma might gain. The first feature from director Autumn de Wilde is working against an early release, but 2020's lack of gorgeous actors dressed in lavish costumes might help Alexandra Byrne gain her sixth nomination anyway. And she'll deserve it...

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Oscar Race: Best Costume Design

We aren't going to find out what the Costume Designer's Guild thinks of this past year in film until March 4th, literally the day before Oscar nomination ballots go out. That gives us two weeks still to believe that all things are possible still in this category, though obviously the season to date will have an effect on the outcome. Here are what we think are the top ten contenders in descending order of probability (though this ranking should not be seen as a meritocracy but merely punditry).

PREDICTIONS

the only lock?

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